Thailand & Burma -- Part 2
by NLAVD
Date: 2002-06-21
Location: Other
 
Here is the second part of my story about diving in Thailand and Burma in April, 2002. Again, this is quite photo intense so be patient with the download. And if the formatting is a little flaky, I'll do what I can.
If you ended up here first, Click here for part 1.




Black Rock is quite simply, a rock in the middle of nowhere...reeaaallly in the middle of nowhere. It's a common location for mantas, in fact, there supposedly had been sightings here on every recent trip. Sadly they were gone, but the diving here was great nonetheless. In general you can expect currents here strong enough to limit your diving to one side of the rock. This makes for a dive site on the smallish side but as I mentioned above, this wasn't much of a limit. The density of life here is almost indescribable. Scorpionfish were common enough to make you wave your hand over a rock you plan to grab (to fight the current), giant morays, fimbriated morays, and white-eyed eels were seen on almost every dive, octopi, anemone crabs, porcelain crabs, hermit crabs...if I knew all the names I could go on for pages.

On one mid-day dive, I followed Alain in hopes of finding a zebra shark to photograph. "Following" is a bit of a misnomer, I actually chased him at nearly my top finning speed. I not only found my self at 130' with decompression obligations, I got there at a full sprint...not good. We didn't see a zebra shark but we did get a glimpse of a good sized shark (some said white tip...I'm not sure). And the prize sighting, a bowmouth guitarfish, was circling about 4' over a sand patch. I truly had no idea what I was watching, it was about 5-6 feet long, looked sort of like a ray but swam with its tail like a shark...odd animal. No photos unfortunately.

Did I mention that Alain's briefings were detailed?


Another prize sighting on this site was a McCosker's dwarf wrasse (aka "McCosker's Flasher"). I kept catching a glimpse of what looked to be a beautiful little wrasse, about 2" long but it would dart from one area to another acting like it was trying to defend each spot when it got there.



The next morning we awoke back at Three Stooges. We dove this site one more time in pursuit of sharks or ghost pipefish (depending on where we went). Doc, Mark and I decided to go for the big guys but they weren't home. The dive was nonetheless beautiful and we got to see a school of young squid in the open water. As we proceeded around the corner of the island, the current brought us to a screaming halt. It was likely the strongest of the trip. Quite fun to hang in it on the corner, but otherwise pretty limiting.



Next was a site called "North Twin Island". We did three dives here on the "normal" sites and one night dive on a fairly unexplored site. The day dives produced some nice scenery, much like the Similan islands with huge rocky structures that sloped down to sand in the deep.
I saw a blue triggerfish which was cool and got my most successful "scenic" type shot of the soft coral.
When we came up from our afternoon dive, there was a storm blowing in so the captain moved the boat into the shelter of the island. The others assumed there would be no more diving and started enjoying the beer. Mark and I were still holding out for a night dive. When the time came, the captain said we could do a dive but it would have to be on the sheltered side of the island where no one from the boat had dived before. Alain warned us that there might be virtually nothing to see but the two of us found that hard to believe and began to gear up.

The island's shore near our entry dropped very steeply into the water giving us the impression that it would get fairly deep quickly. I donned my mask and rolled back from the Zodiac. CLANG! I was in two feet of water with a solid rock bottom! I came up just in time to see Mark do the same. We checked that nothing and no one was hurt and told the Zodiac crew to tow us to deeper water. As we were dragged through the water we watched the bottom until we began to see staghorn coral in amazing quantities. We let go of the boat in only about 7 feet of water and began our dive. The pristine coral continued down a long sloping bottom until we got to about 35' where it began to turn to sand and other types of coral. Turning our lights back to the embankment, we realized we were beside a stand of staghorn that extended as far as we could see. We swam along where the sand met the coral for hundreds of feet and the health of the coral never diminished. I turned to see Mark stopped in the sand with his light off. When I approached, he signaled to turn my light off. I watched the bioluminescence for a few minutes and then I realized why he wanted the lights off...lightning! With every strike from the storm above, a hundred foot radius of pristine coral was lit just long enough to print it permanently in our minds. We then could see that the reef was also made up of huge multi-level mushroom corals, table corals, maze corals and others I couldn't begin to identify. As memorable as this dive was, it's almost sad to realize that I may never see a field of coral this healthy again...even if I come back to this site.

This dive wasn't without its critters. We were constantly in the company of crabs of various types, lobsters, shrimps, crinoids (walking about, no less), and the odd nocturnal fish. Two different hermit crabs had small anemones attached to their shells for camouflage. Fascinating! This is the type of dive that you could never forget.

The last dive at this site was another search for zebra (leopard) sharks. I ventured off on my own, sort of chasing Alain but he was long gone the first time I stopped for a photo. I ended up finding nothing of real interest. When I got back to the surface, I was greeted by Doc's stories of not one but two zebra sharks. Note to self: stick with Doc in the future.

Next up--the remainder of the diving.

Click here for part 3


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